![]() Turn on the ignition, activate the timing light trigger, and aim it anywhere that will allow you to observe it flash. Continue rotating the engine until the TDC mark (line) in positioned in the center of the timing hole. ![]() With your thumb over the front spark plug hole you'll feel pressure when the front piston starts on its compression stroke. Shift the tranny into 4th or 5th, and slowly rotate the engine by turning the back wheel in the forward direction. Pull out the clear timing plug for better visibility. Pull the plugs out and ground the plug wires. (I don't know how I ever lived without a dial-back timing light.) If you're absolutely unable to find the timing mark in the window, even after playing around with the sensor/breaker plate, you may have to get your bearings by static timing it first. If the motor requires some max advance other than the marks provided on the flywheel, then a dial-back light becomes an absolute necessity. With a dial-back light, the control is set to 35 degrees (or whatever max advance your motor requires), and instead of the dot, the TDC line on the flywheel should be positioned in the center of the timing hole. With two people, one person can manage the throttle and adjust the sensor/breaker plate while the other person checks things with the light. Doing this alone will require the bike be shut down, adjusted, and retested. If the dot is forward of center, the timing is too retarded and the plate should be turned slightly clockwise. If the dot is rear of center, the timing is too advanced and the plate should be turned slightly counterclockwise. The width of the timing hole is roughly 5 degrees of crank rotation. Aim the timing light at the clear plug and look for the single dot. Max advance occurs at 2500RPM, so start the bike and bring it up to at least that point. It's easier to check/adjust the timing with two people, but it can be done by you using the throttle lock. The two studs securing the plate should be loosened enough to allow it to be moved, but not so loose that the plate can move easily with vibration. Thus, turning the plate clockwise will advance the timing and turning it counterclockwise will retard the timing. ![]() The rotor is driven by the camshaft and turns counterclockwise when facing the nose cone. Adjusting the timing is done by moving the sensor/breaker plate inside the nose cone. So, to get set up, you need the bike warmed up, the clear plug installed in the timing hole (hole in left case just below and between the base of the cylinders), the timing light power connected to the battery, and the timing light pickup attached to the front plug wire. (Less advance due to poor quality fuel I assume.) On later models it indicates 20 degree BTDC for the front jug and is the max advance mark for the exported bikes. ![]() The double dot on the early models indicates TDC for the rear jug. The single dot indicates 35 degrees BTDC for the front jug, and is the max advance mark for US bikes. In addition, there's a single dot mark and a double dot mark. Of course, not everyone has one of those. This is the easiest mark to see and makes it a real breeze to set the timing with a dial-back light. The BT Evo flywheel usually has three marks. It also helps to have the bike parked in the shade to reduce the sunlight washing out the timing light flashes. It helps to have fairly clean oil - if it's been a while since the last change, it can make it hard to see the timing mark. Some of the CCI or DragSpec ones are pure junk. They have excellent clarity, they're long enough to contact the flywheel and scrape off the oil, and the threads are decent. Get yourself one of those clear plugs that screws into the timing hole. I won't elaborate on aftermarket programmable ignition modules here. Factory advance curves are not always ideal for high performance Evos. What I'm describing here is just for setting the factory spec timing for a BT Evo that's not heavily breathed on.
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